WHEN YOUR PLANTS ARRIVE
THE RECEIVING INSTRUCTIONS
Please review your shipment immediately upon receipt. Check products and quantities received against this packing slip. If you have questions or if your package arrived damaged from shipment, call us at 1-877-NFBERRY (1-877-632-3779 ) or email us at info@noursefarms.com .
THE BACKORDERED ITEMS
Backordered items will ship as soon as they are available.
THE IMPORTANT STUFF
Keep roots cool and moist, not soaked, until you plant. Plant as soon as possible after receipt.
Here at Nourse Farms, we pack, hold, and ship our plants in their dormant stage for spring planting. Our plants perform best when planted in warm soil (60ºF) after the risk of hard frost has passed. When you receive your plants, they should be planted within days of receipt.
We understand that life happens.
Whether it's rainy weather conditions or a busy schedule, you may not be able to plant immediately after receipt. For a short duration, up to 7–10 days, you can store your plants in a standard refrigerator or walk-in cooler between 35ºF and 40ºF. If you need to hold off planting for 10 or more days, store plants at a consistent 28ºF to maintain dormancy.
No cold storage? No problem.
We recommend potting your plants if you cannot keep them at the right temperature. Potted plants should be allowed to root well before transplanting to reduce shock.
Upon receipt, check the condition of the plants.
Bareroot strawberry and raspberry plants are shipped in a plastic bag with moistened shredded paper added to prevent the roots from drying out. Check that the paper has not dried and moisten slightly if necessary. Shredded paper should be damp, not sopping wet. Asparagus plants are susceptible to storage molds and should be kept dry. If mold is noticed at receipt, remove the crowns from the box and lay them out in a single layer, out of direct sunlight. After 2–3 hours, they can be put back into the box and moved into cold storage.
Make sure to review the Growing Guides !
THE BERRY STEPS
We are so happy to have you as a Nourse Farms customer. We want you to succeed, so we suggest following the BERRY steps:
B e ready: review the Growing Guides .
E ntice the plants: keep roots cool and moist (not soaked!) until you plant.
R esponsible storage: do not freeze your plants.
R eact fast: plant your plants as soon as possible.
Y ou got this! But you can come to us for help:
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BEFORE YOU PLANT The ideal soil pH is 5.5 to 6.5.
Samdal will produce a large crop of berries, while Samyl will prioritize the production of flowers or blossoms. Growers require both Samdal and Samyl for cross-pollination purposes; we recommend a five to one (5:1) ratio of Samdal to Samyl for optimal yields.
The varieties Samdal and Samyl are Sambucus nigra varieties that tend to produce larger, sweeter berries than S. canadensis.
Eradicate all perennial weeds before planting and add organic matter if needed. Checking the pH and nutrient levels in the soil eight to ten (8-10) months before planting is best for getting plants started. Have your Agricultural Extension Service do a crop-specific soil test and amend as necessary the year before planting.
Elderberries thrive in a wide range of soil textures, acidity, and fertility if the soil has good drainage. Elderberries prefer a location with full sun exposure but will tolerate partial shade.
Spacing:
Four to six feet (4–6’) between plants
Ten to twelve feet (10–12’) between rows
PLANTING Plant as soon as possible in the spring, after your soil has warmed to 50°F. Planting too early, in cool, damp soil, can delay development or cause roots to rot. Do not fertilize at planting. Cover the plug with one half inch (½") of soil and refrain from pruning.
Elderberry plants are generally free of pests. However, birds and Japanese beetles absolutely love elderberry. Birds can strip an unprotected elderberry bush clean as soon as the berries turn color! We recommend netting plants against birds. Excessive Japanese beetle feeding can impact productivity. Hand removal or Tachinid flies are useful for control; do not use traps for Japanese beetle control.
IRRIGATION Check soil moisture regularly, so plants are not over or underirrigated. Elderberries are sensitive to drought stress. It is essential to keep the soil moist throughout the establishment period, as elderberries are shallow-rooted plants. From flowering through harvest, be certain the plants receive one to two inches of water per week. More frequent irrigation may be necessary if the soil is sandy and during periods of very hot weather. Drip irrigation is the most efficient and healthiest method.
WEED CONTROL Eradicate perennial weeds prior to planting. Thorough, manual weeding is necessary each year. Roots are fibrous and shallow, so avoid cultivating deeply. Mulch is a protective layer of material spread on top of the soil that can help control weeds and retain soil moisture. We recommend lightly mulching (2–3 inches) with weed-free straw during establishment. We do not recommend using leaves or grass clippings as mulch, as they can mat and smother plants, while also harboring pests. Generally, once established, a thick planting will suppress weeds on its own. You may continue to employ seed-free straw or aged woodchips if you take care to ensure new growth is able to emerge easily each year from the crown.
FERTILIZATION Do not fertilize in the planting year. Apply manure or compost only after the plants have begun to grow. Fertilize annually, each spring. The best practice is to have your Agricultural Extension Service perform crop-specific pH and nutrient testing on the soil, so you can apply exactly what is required and avoid applying materials that are not needed. In lieu of soil testing, spread one cup 10-10-10 around each plant.
PRUNING Elderberries produce new growth from their crowns under the soil annually. Elderberries bear fruit on wood that is three 3 years old or younger. Do not prune elderberries for the first three (3) growing seasons unless you discover broken, damaged, or diseased canes. In succeeding years, in late winter during the dormancy period, cut the oldest canes as close to the ground as possible. Your plant should have three 1-year-old canes, three 2-year-old canes, and three 3-year-old canes. Cane stubs above ground can be entry sites for insects and disease pathogens. Prune when plants are dry.
HARVEST Remove all flowers during the first year and do not allow berries to develop. Allowing fruit to develop on first-year plants may stunt growth and delay establishment. Removing flowers enables the plant to focus on vegetative growth, directing its energy into developing a strong root system and structure. You can expect a light crop the second year, and a full crop yield in the third year.
Berries are generally harvested in late summer (typically late August through early September). Harvest entire clusters from the shrub and strip the berries from the cluster for use. Use the fruit as soon as possible, or store it in a cool place for later use.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATION WARNING: Raw elderberries can be toxic because they contain cyanide compounds. For safe consumption, elderberries MUST be heat-processed. When heat-processed, the cyanide compounds will evaporate out of the berries. Cooked elderberries are safe to eat, and the elderberry blossoms are edible.
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