Most plantings are decided a year before the plant reaches the soil. Strawberries, brambles, blueberries, asparagus, elderberries, horseradish, and rhubarb can occupy a field for years, so a poor site choice creates long-term problems.

Across every crop we offer, the same four principles hold:

• Know your field history. Previous crops can leave soil pathogens, and some herbicides persist in the soil for up to 36 months.
• Test early. A crop-specific soil test from your Agricultural Extension Service 8–12 months before planting gives amendments time to work.
• Prioritize drainage and airflow. Wet soils invite root rot, and low-lying frost pockets stress plants and extend disease periods.
• Clear perennial weeds first. Eliminating weeds a year ahead is easier than addressing them in an established planting.

Cover Crops

• Cover soil whenever possible to protect it from erosion and reduce the loss of organic matter and nutrients. Use cover crops to maximize coverage.
• Cover crops can improve soil structure, enhance nutrient availability, reduce soil erosion, and stimulate biological activity.
• To add nitrogen to the soil, use leguminous cover crops such as clovers, field peas, and hairy vetch. Hairy vetch has been shown to suppress some anthracnose species. For weed suppression, use fast-growing cover crops such as Sudan grass, buckwheat, and Japanese millet.

Weeds

• Avoid pastureland and sites with established perennial weeds. Start control a full year ahead; apply any herbicides at least 30 days before planting.
• For small areas, repeated cultivation or a black plastic tarp left for several months works well.
• If severe weed or soil problems justify fumigation, fumigate warm (above 50°F), friable soil free of decomposing residue, ideally in late summer or early fall.

Strawberries

Strawberries do best on a never-before-cropped, well-drained sandy loam with a pH of 6.5–6.8 and a gentle 3–4% slope. Yields peak in a field's first fruiting year, so choose rotation land now.

Field history

• Avoid sites where brambles, strawberries, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, or peppers were previously planted. These can harbor Verticillium, Phytophthora, and nematodes.
• Allow at least 3–4 years between strawberry plantings on the same site. Longer is better.
• Know the herbicide history for at least the previous 1–2 years, with 3–4 years ideal. Group 2 (ALS inhibitor) herbicides used in corn, soybeans, and pumpkins can persist for 18–36 months. Sandea, for example, carries a 36-month plant-back for strawberries. If a label is silent on strawberries, wait 36 months.

Location

• Air drainage: Avoid low spots and areas where trees or hedgerows trap cold air. Good airflow also dries foliage and fruit faster, shortening disease infection periods.
• Slope: Aim for 3–4%; avoid anything steeper than 5%. South-facing slopes bloom earlier and raise spring frost risk. West-facing slopes face the most winter injury from drying winds.
• Water: You need an ample, high-quality supply for both irrigation and frost protection.
• Access: For U-Pick, keep fields close to parking. For retail, keep fields close to outlets.

Soil and fertility

• Strawberries tolerate many soil types but not standing water. On wet sites, install subsoil drainage or plant on raised beds. Avoid heavy clay and stony ground.
• Soil test well ahead of planting for pH, organic matter, and fertility. On acidic sandy or calcareous soils, use lime or sulfur to correct pH and micronutrient issues.
• Apply 50–60 units of actual nitrogen per acre preplant, with matching phosphorus and potassium in a slow-release form. On matted row, that is about half of the 90–120 unit seasonal requirement.
• Plasticulture growers should work fertilizer in before bed shaping. Matted-row growers can incorporate it 1–2 weeks before planting.

Raspberries

Raspberries have a target soil pH of 6.5–6.8 and need clean ground: rotate out of any susceptible crop for 5–8 years before planting.

• Field history: Avoid soils that previously grew strawberries, brambles, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, or peppers. These crops can harbor soil pathogens that hurt plant health and performance.
• Rotation: Rotate such ground for 5–8 years with a non-Verticillium-susceptible crop such as oats or wheat.
• Soil test: Have your Agricultural Extension Service run a crop-specific soil test 8–12 months before planting. Early results let you apply exactly what is needed, in the right amount.
• Amendment timing: Some amendments need time to take effect, and some are ineffective when applied to the soil surface. Incorporate them well ahead of planting.

Blackberries

Blackberries want well-drained soil with a pH of about 6.5–6.8, on ground free of bramble pathogens for 5–8 years.

• Field history: Avoid soils that previously grew strawberries, brambles, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, or peppers. Rotate such ground for 5–8 years with a non-Verticillium-susceptible crop such as oats or wheat.
• Drainage: Canes will not grow well or live as long in soil that stays wet, because of root rot. On poorly drained ground, build raised beds, improve drainage, or choose a better-drained site.
• Soil test: Send a sample to your Agricultural Extension Service for crop-specific pH and nutrient testing 8–12 months before planting. Apply only what the crop needs under your current soil conditions.
• Climate: Consider your climate and each variety's winter hardiness before you buy.

Blueberries

Blueberries need very acidic soil (pH 4.5–5.0), and you must set that pH before planting. Correcting pH after planting is far slower and less effective.

• Soil test now: If you are adding blueberries, send a sample to your Agricultural Cooperative Extension as soon as possible. The report will specify the exact materials and quantities to incorporate.
• Amend before planting: Till in slightly aged wood chips and the recommended amount of sulfur based on soil test results.
• Weeds: Eradicate all perennial weeds before planting.
• Pollination: Plant at least two varieties to ensure cross-pollination and the best yields.

Asparagus

Asparagus is a long-term planting that needs sweet soil (pH 7.2+), full sun, and a field that has never grown asparagus.

• No replanting on old asparagus ground: Asparagus is highly susceptible to Fusarium root rot. The fungus can survive up to 7 years in infected soil, and fumigation does not reduce long-term populations.
• Self-allelopathy: Established asparagus releases compounds that suppress young crowns, another reason to rotate before replanting in the same field.
• Corn history: Do not plant where corn has grown within the last 3 years.
• Start a year ahead: Begin by eradicating all perennial weeds.
• Soil test: Have your Agricultural Extension Service run a crop-specific soil test 8–12 months before planting. Some amendments need time to work, and some are less effective on the surface.
• Phosphorus placement: Apply phosphorus in the bottom of the planting trench. Topdressing is less effective.
• Permanent site: Choose a full-sun, well-drained location. Asparagus does not like to be moved.

Elderberries

Elderberries adapt to a wide range of soil textures, acidity, and fertility, as long as drainage is good; the ideal pH is 5.5–6.5.

• Site: Full sun is best, though plants tolerate partial shade.
• Weeds and organic matter: Eradicate all perennial weeds before planting and add organic matter if needed.
• Soil test: Have your Agricultural Extension Service run a crop-specific soil test 8–12 months before planting, and amend as needed the year before.

Horseradish

Horseradish yields best in deep, well-drained loam or sandy loam rich in organic matter, in full sun.

• Soil depth matters: Avoid shallow soils over hard subsoil. Roots become distorted or over-branched, and yields drop in stony, shallow, or hard ground.
• Sun: Full sun is best; light shade is tolerated.
• Climate: Horseradish does well with a long, warm growing season followed by a marked autumn cool-down.
• Weeds: Eradicate all perennial weeds before planting.
• Soil test: Have your Agricultural Extension Service run a crop-specific soil test 8–12 months before planting. Phosphorus and potash levels often need adjustment, and some amendments need time to work or are less effective on the surface.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb needs a permanent, full-sun site with deep, fertile, well-drained soil high in organic matter, and a cold dormant season.

• Organic matter: Work 2–3 inches of well-aged compost into the top 6–8 inches of soil before planting.
• Weeds: Eradicate all perennial weeds before planting.
• Soil test: Have your Agricultural Extension Service run a crop-specific soil test 8–12 months before planting. Some amendments need time to work, and some are less effective on the surface.
• Planting time: Plant as early in spring as possible once soil reaches 50°F. Cool, damp soil can delay development or cause roots to rot.
• Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting or during the first season.
• Spacing: Some varieties are larger and more vigorous and need wider spacing. Crowding reduces yields and increases disease pressure.

Ready to plan your planting?

The best time to prepare next year's field is now. Pull your field and herbicide records, schedule your soil tests, and start clearing perennial weeds.

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